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Monday, 15 April 2013

Morning Exercise at Bang Wad Reservoir

Posted on 07:45 by Unknown
Bang Wad reservoir is Phuket's largest source of fresh water, a large artificial lake in the hills in the Kathu area of Phuket not far from Phuket Town and only a short drive from my house. The dam is about 800m long and there's a small road winding for a total of 6.5km around the reservoir. We've been coming up here for 10 years, normally just for a little walk, some fresh air and exercise, let the kids ride bikes along the dam, buy some food from the food stalls that are there on weekend evenings. We've driven around the reservoir a few times, it's a lovely jungly road, but until last month I'd never tried to walk or run around that road. With the coming of another birthday, I decided it's time to try and get more healthy. Too much time sitting at a computer and too many beers .. I am about 20kg, maybe 25kg, bigger than when I arrived in Phuket back in 1999. After a few days just walking up and down the dam, just walking a few km, I took the plunge and headed off around the reservoir on the 6.5km loop. Not running, just walking.

At Bang Wad Reservoir

(above) This is the dam not long after sunrise. Best to start early or it's to hot, and I'll be late for work. In the mornings there are quite a few people exercising, walking or running or cycling around the road. There are more people in the early evening, but since I normally don't stop work at the dive shop until 6pm, the morning is when I am able to get there. And the reservoir really looks great in the morning light. It's a side of Phuket people maybe don't know exists. A big lake? Hills?

At Bang Wad Reservoir

Sometimes I walk clockwise, sometimes anti-clockwise (that's counter clockwise for Americans). I throw in some short bursts of running too, and got some new Reeboks just last week. The aim will be to actually be able to run 6.5km eventually. Doesn't sound like much of a challenge, but it's going to need some work. I signed up for an app called Strava to "track my progress". No rush, not aiming to be Phuket's biggest loser :)

The road twists and turns around the reservoir, there is very little vehicular traffic. On an average walk I see maybe a handful of mopeds, maybe 1 or 2 pick up trucks, and the cyclists, joggers and walkers.

At Bang Wad Reservoir

At Bang Wad Reservoir

At the moment it takes me around an hour to walk 6.5km around the reservoir. A bit faster if there is some jogging involved. Fastest time about 55 minutes. Sounds a bit slow, but from small acorns grow the mighty oak! And a 1 hour fast walk is a good way to burn fat, and sweat out a few poisons like the beers I am drinking as I write this now! Seems a shame to run, it's nice to walk and enjoy the jungle and some great views across the water in the early morning light ...

At Bang Wad Reservoir

Yes, this beautiful scene is in Phuket! Remember that Phuket has some pretty big hills, up to about 1700 feet high. I've done a few hikes in the past, such as a little ramble up to the Big Buddha, and a much harder one up to the top of Phuket's highest hill. It's not just beaches here in Phuket, which was part of the point of starting this blog back in 2006 :)

There's a lot of little interesting things to see on the way round the road. There are little rubber plantations, quite a few small houses, and I've seen one area with pineapples growing too. If you're walking and not rushing too much, the details stand out. Roadside shrines and bananas. And jungle. Most of Phuket is green.

At Bang Wad Reservoir

At Bang Wad Reservoir

At Bang Wad Reservoir

It's really nice there. A totally different side of Phuket, away from the tourism, beaches, nightlife. I'm very happy that Bang Wad reservoir is so close to our house! There are various places for people to walk or jog in Phuket, in different local areas. This is our area... It was the hope when starting this blog that a few people might want to visit some of the lesser known, and certainly less touristy parts of Phuket. So maybe see you 7am at the reservoir sometime!


Bang Wad Reservoir - Location Map


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Monday, 8 April 2013

Koh Rang Yai

Posted on 08:45 by Unknown
Koh Rang Yai is a small uninhabited island about 5km off the east coast of Phuket, featuring a kilometer of sandy beach on the west side with views back to the mainland. There is a restaurant, a little bar and I believe some bungalows, I'm going to have to go again to check, but I am sure that they have some simple bungalows for rent. The island is a little slice of paradise. Really. It's as close to unspoiled as you can get in this part of the world. The photo below was taken in March 2013 ...

Koh Rang Yai Island

To reach Koh Rang Yai, you can visit as part of a tour or take a longtail boat from Laem Hin jetty, next to Laem Hin Seafood (a favourite restaurant). On the way, you pass Koh Maphrao, a much bigger island which is basically full of coconut trees (Maphrao = coconut), has a fishing village and a resort called The Village which opened a few years ago. I'm tempted to book us in there for a night sometime soon!

We've been there a few times over the years, the first time in 2006 with our kids and my parents. The parents are back again this year and I think maybe we might just head to Koh Rang Yai again after a tasty lunch at Laem Hin! That first time I think we paid 800 Baht for the longtail boat, I guess it would be more now, but not too much more. I mean, there's not much there, ideal to chill on a lovely beach, but not much to do! I think the kids would love to go back and really it's a gorgeous place...

Rang Yai Island

I am quite amazed that a huge resort has not been built there yet. Doesn't seem to have changed much over the years. The second time I visited was in 2010, a great day out on my birthday - the owner of Sunrise Divers bought a cool sporty speedboat to use as a charter boat and we headed to Koh Rang Yai to do some promotional photography with Helicam...

Koh Rang Yai Island

The photo above is by Helicam - the little helicopter with attached camera was being flown by Phil (one of the owners) chasing the speedboat - they'd never tried doing really low level stuff like this before. And that's Koh Rang Yai in the background! They got some great shots. In the back of the speedboat is me taking photos and Phil controlling the helicopter. The photographer is also in the speedboat - he gets a live image from the helicam and takes photos by remote control. Amazing stuff! Some of the photos I took can be found on the blog - see Speedboats and Helicam at Rang Yai Island. You can "park" a speedboat or longtail boat easily at the beach ...

Koh Rang Yai Island

Rang Yai was in my mind again recently - we did a speedboat tour right around Phuket Island a few weeks ago, a bit of an experimental tour by my friends at Easy Day Thailand. We did a full circumnavigation of Phuket, with several stops on the way, the first stop being at Koh Rang Yai and to be honest I think we would have been happy to stay there all day! The word "paradise" is overused, but anyway ....

Koh Rang Yai

Certainly fun for all the family. We stopped about 1 hour on the island. There is something about blue seas, white sand, palm trees, a cold beer that makes you want to stay a while. We'd stocked a few beers on ice in the speedboat. I saw that there is a bar there by the beach. I know that there is a small restaurant, but on that last visit in 2010 we found the restaurant to be somewhat overpriced, charging something like 200 Baht for a fried rice. If we go again soon, we're taking a picnic! Not sure what the bar charged for a beer, but sometimes any price is OK for a cold beer on a perfect day :)

Jump at Koh Rang Yai

Oh yeh, jump for joy! When we stopped on that trip, there were about 10 other boats and almost all the tourists from those boats had taken up position on the same 100 meter stretch of sand or in the shade of the trees behind the beach. If you walk 100m, you get a perfect beach to yourself. Same goes in many tourist areas. 90% of tourists in the same 10% of space. Take the road less traveled! I mean, just by heading to Koh Rang Yai you lose 99% of the tourists who are happily sitting on Patong beach or one of the other main beaches. And then walk 100m and you lose 90% of the remaining 1%. Get it? Hope so.

Koh Rang Yai Island

Inland from the beach, aside from the previously mentioned bungalows (I think), restaurant and bar, there's a shop, and then some trails through the coconut trees. You can rent a bicycle and ride around or just take a walk as we did. Yeh, not much to see, but sometimes that's great. Palm trees, nature, sand, sea, the hot tropical air. That'll do!

Bicycles at Koh Rang Yai island

(above) Bike hire on Rang Yai island

Koh Rang Yai - Island Interior

Not a bad little place! I think we'll be back again soon. The east coast of Phuket has a lot of small islands. It sounds kind of obvious but the best way to see Phuket island is by boat!

Koh Rang Yai - Location Map


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Thursday, 4 April 2013

Shrine of the Serene Light

Posted on 19:30 by Unknown
Phuket Town is full of history, full of interest. I still keep stumbling upon new places... I wish there was more time to explore and less time in the office! I thought I knew the old town pretty well, but then back in 2009 I read about this shrine on the "Phuket Town Treasure Map" (a great map for exploring old town, it's made by a company called Serendipity Designs which has an office on Soi Romanee). A shrine that I did not know about? It seems I must have walked past the entrance many times, but in 2009 the entrance to the shrine was an alleyway about 4 feet wide marked by a pillar with Chinese writing (see photo here.) Felt like I was making a real discovery! The shrine itself was a bit crumbly and I was the only visitor. A couple of years ago, renovation started on the shrine, and the entrance has been widened and beautified. The renovation took ages and it only reopened officially in February 2013. So, this is an updated, re written blog post about the Shrine of the Serene Light with new 2013 photos!

Shrine of the Serene Light

(above) Entrance to the shrine on Phang Nga road

The shrine, also called Sang Tham Shrine, is built among the houses in the old town. It was built in 1889 by a local Hokkien Chinese family. The late 19th century was a boom time for Phuket, with money pouring in from the tin mining industry. Chinese families became very important here around that time. The old town is full of Chinese influence - check the shops, the shrines, the people. If you see the Google map at the bottom of the page, you can see the shrine is really in the middle of a block or houses and shops, hidden away. There's actually a "secret" passage at the back of the shrine that leads through the kitchen of a restaurant on the next street (Thalang Road). I've walked through a couple of time. Down the alleyway from Phang Nga road is the main entrance to the shrine...

Shrine of the Serene Light

Certainly looks a lot better than it used to. And on the day I visited last month there were a few other visitors including a Chinese-Thai man from Bangkok paying his respects. A reminder to everyone about being respectful ...

Shrine of the Serene Light

Externally, the shrine is very bright and colourful especially now that it's been fixed up and repainted. Inside the shrine, things are different. Everything is kept tidy by a live-in caretaker, but inside there has been no rebuilding or repainting.

Shrine of the Serene Light

The walls are covered in murals showing old stories - the walls look old. Were they originally this colour, or is that due to over 120 years of smoke from burning incense? I am happy to see that nobody has tried to restore these old walls. The local people here have a healthy respect for tradition and history. If you walk into the shrine, with the incense that always burns, there's a huge array of statues of Chinese gods.

Shrine of the Serene Light

The photo below I took from behind a row of statues looking back out the entrance of the shrine ...

Shrine of the Serene Light

It's quite a magical place and well worth looking for. I always urge people to go take a walk around town, visit a shrine, maybe the Thai Hua museum or the Chinpracha House, get some lunch at Kopitiam or try some Roti with curry. And stop by the old Chinese herb shop on Thalang Road, join the locals for a late afternoon walk at Sapan Hin park..... Phuket Town is where it's at!


Shrine of the Serene Light - Location Map


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