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Thursday, 24 June 2010

Radar Hill - Highest Road in Phuket

Posted on 20:35 by Unknown
Until a few years ago, I thought Radar Hill was the highest point in Phuket - the highest hill. Everyone who comes to Phuket will see Radar Hill (real name Khao Mai Tao Sip Song) - it's the big hill behind Patong Beach with the radar dome on top and can be seen from much of south Phuket. BUT it's not actually the highest hill. Another hill a little to the North above Kathu Waterfall tops out around 30m higher (543m) - and I hiked up there in September 2009 - see Hiking to the Roof of Phuket.

But even if Radar Hill is the second highest hill, it certainly boasts the highest road. You can drive all the way to the top.. almost. You cannot quite hit the summit since the radar is a military installation, so when you are 95% of the way up you reach a gate and armed soldiers. The road by the gate is just about half a kilometer above sea level. We've been up here plenty of times and I first blogged about it back in 2006, but one day in 2010, we thought "we've not driven up this hill for a while" and we had an hour to waste while our son was at school football practice. The weather was a bit wet, but I figured we'd still get some great views on the way up before entering the cloud line. Actually, it turned out to be great, our daughter loved being "in the clouds" and our son was quite upset to hear that we'd done such an exciting thing without him! A bit of rain does not stop a good time!

The road up is in good condition, but steep in places. The start of the road is off Chao Fa West Road about 1km north of Chalong Temple. Follow the sign that says "Villa Zolitude". You go past a small golf course and then pass Villa Zolitude as the road starts to climb. Keep going... you wind up into the hills, it's very green, and views start to appear through the trees.

The road to the top of Radar Hill

View east looking at Bang Wad Reservoir

(above) this is Bang Wad Reservoir and beyond is part of Kathu. In fact we could see our house from here.. if we had a very good telescope!

As we climbed higher, we entered the clouds. Unsurprisingly, we were the only people up here looking at views. Indeed any time we come up here we are the only people... everyone else goes up to the Big Buddha or Rang Hill (in Phuket Town).

Cloudy near the top of Radar Hill

We stopped right by the gate where there is space to turn around easily. From just below the gate you get a view over Patong. There are signs to remind you that this is a restricted area and just past that sign you see the southern part of Patong through the trees, and in this case, through the clouds...

Restricted Area

View over Patong

A little black cat came to say hello to us. What the hell are you doing up a 500m high hill, cat? We thought about taking him home.. but he wandered off into the trees... and about 1 minute later we heard the sounds of a cat fighting. And then silence. We reckon he might have got ambushed by a big snake. We saw a snake one time as we drove up this hill, a rather nasty pit viper. Oh well, RIP cat, I think.

From the road near the gate, the top of the Buddha hill is visible. Well, it should be.. On this particular morning it was in the clouds, but there were fleeting glimpses of the 45m high white marble Buddha through gaps in the clouds...

Big Buddha in the Clouds

A little below the top, around 370m above sea level, there is a small parking spot on the left side as you come up and just as the road does a series of sharp curves. It's pretty steep here, but you can park by the side of the road where you can get some views over Patong; and in the other direction you see hills and can see over to Chalong Bay too. We stopped on the way down.

Road up Radar Hill, Phuket

First thing I saw was not the view, but this huge monster:

Monster found at Radar Hill

A most impressive beast for a macro lens! Oh yes, and a view over Patong, better from here, less trees and no clouds in the way...

Patong View from Radar Hill

Road here is very steep - I think the photo below shows that. A Honda Wave 125cc would be straining up this one! And if you come up in a car make sure the brakes work! And on a bicycle? Well, be sure to take some special Lance Armstrong tea before trying that ;)

Road up Radar Hill, Phuket

And this view from the same stop, looking away from Patong towards Phuket Town with heavy clouds threatening. A bit of rain and cloud does not stop us! Don't be stuck in your hotel room moaning if the sky looks dark. Yes, it rains here sometimes! How do you think everything gets so green? Get out and about. Hiring a car is a good idea in Phuket, it's a big island, go and explore. Even on a rainy day, it's not going to be wet all day, and it's not going to be wet everywhere on the island.

Stormy Weather

Over the years I have enjoyed many days when we just drive around and follow back roads. Phuket is full of surprises, and it's on these back roads that you find the real Phuket rather than the Phuket-by-the-sea of the tourist brochures. There's more to Phuket. Always more.

Radar Hill - Location Map


View Radar Hill, Phuket in a larger map
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Monday, 21 June 2010

Spicy Noodles for Breakfast

Posted on 21:23 by Unknown
Sunday morning 9am. Dropped our son off at school for football practice - yes, he's only 5, but so long as he's enjoying it, I am also happy. We made sure he ate some sensible cereal before starting, but the rest of the family planned to eat breakfast while he was busy. Just down the road about 2km from the school is a noodle restaurant. Nothing amazing about that - Phuket, just like anywhere else in Thailand, has noodle shops everywhere. A bowl of noodles is one of the most common meals or snacks for Thai people. I have blogged a couple of other noodle places before - here and here. If you are in Phuket, you MUST try a simple bowl of noodles at least once - it's cheap and tasty and filling. I normally trust my wife with regards to choosing noodle restaurants, she'll find one that is clean, friendly and serving noodles with the best flavour - it's all in the soup - can be a bit bland sometimes, I admit. This one is not - where we ate on Sunday does the noodles in a Tom Yum soup full of veggies, crunchy bits of pork and garlic and not a small amount of chili!

Entrance to noodle restaurant

Sunday Muay Thai on the TV

It's a small place, only 4 tables, up a side street off Chao Fa West road about 3km from Chalong Temple (see location on Google Earth). Simple inside, Muay Thai on the TV (well, it is Sunday).

Noodles

Preparing Noodles

We ordered our noodles - including a less spicy one for our daughter. The 2 ladies who run the place are very friendly. My wife has been several times with friends after dropping the kids at school. If my wife is a regular customer, that's a big plus - must be good food! I took photos of the ladies preparing our breakfast. Yes, after some time in Thailand you start to eat spicy noodles for breakfast. Sometimes I have cornflakes, sometimes eggs, but breakfast in Thailand is... flexible! I admit it took me a long time to get my head around this. In England, breakfast is breakfast, you CANNOT have soup or curry or noodles, are you mad?! Tom Yum spicy noodles for breakfast. Great. Try it!

preparing noodle soup

Adding veggies and beansprouts

Noodle restaurant with smiles

They do drinks too - I had ice tea (black), my wife had a Thai style ice coffee called Oliang. The drinks come in interesting cups - not your normal plastic beakers here.

Drinks

And the noodles (noodle soup, Kuaytiow) - very very tasty, if a little too spicy for breakfast! A simple bowl of noodles, when loaded up with pork and veg and beansprouts and other bits, makes a meal fit for a king. The breakfast of champions!

Tom Yum Noodle soup
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Monday, 14 June 2010

Phuket Orchid Resort - Karon Beach

Posted on 00:52 by Unknown
The Phuket Orchid Resort is located at Karon Beach, the entrance is on Luang Poh Chuang Road (also called Karon Bangla Road) about 2 minutes walk to the beach.. and just a few minutes walk to see me at Sunrise Divers! We see quite a few customers from Phuket Orchid. I walk past the hotel if I head down to the beach. I'd recommend the place for families or anyone wanting a conveniently located hotel, but on a quieter beach than Patong. Not ideal if you want a quiet romantic hotel - it has 500+ rooms, so it's not a small place, but well designed with lot of tropical gardens and (the biggest positive I can see in the reviews) - big, big swimming pools which wind around the grounds surrounded by plants, statues, waterfalls, rocks and bridges. Looks great.

I can also add that I know the GM - his kids are in the same school as ours. So if you stay there and see John, please tell him Jamie recommended the Orchid. (update 2011 - he's managing a hotel in Samui now.. but I still recommend the Orchid!)

Phuket Orchid Resort - Booking & Reviews

• Phuket Orchid Resort - Rates and Reservations at Agoda.com
• Phuket Orchid Resort Reviews

Phuket Orchid Resort - Photos

Phuket Orchid Resort Phuket Orchid Resort Room

Phuket Orchid Resort Pool Phuket Orchid Resort Poolside Dining

Phuket Hotels - More Information - Online Booking

• More of Jamie's Phuket Hotel Suggestions
• Top 10 Phuket Hotels
• Phuket Hotels - Book Online at Agoda.com
• Thailand Hotel Booking at Agoda.com
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Friday, 4 June 2010

Aspery Hotel Patong Beach

Posted on 18:44 by Unknown
I'm not a big fan of Patong Beach myself, though of course there are plenty of people who like the hustle and bustle, like the endless shops, the abundance of restaurants, the bars and girls and so on. Patong is the most developed 3km of tourist beach in Thailand. Any other beach in Phuket is quieter. BUT even if Patong is not my cup of tea, there are quite a few recommended Patong hotels on this blog. Not everyone wants to stay on a secluded beach - there are disadvantages to that too, mainly a lack of alternative places to eat and distance to attractions in Phuket. If you stay in Patong you can walk to 100 different restaurants, try a new place every day without having to take a tuk tuk. And if you like a bit of nightlife, Patong is the place to be. But you probably don't want to be staying right next to a bar.. don't worry, Patong is big enough to have quieter areas. The Aspery is only a 10 minute walk to Bangla Road, but is located in a quiet back street behind the main through road (Rat U Thid road).

The Aspery is a bargain, especially in low season (now!) - I see rates under 1000 Baht a night. You can often get good rates in Patong due to (I think) an over supply of rooms. And this is not a cheap guesthouse, Aspery has 70+ rooms, all with big LDC TV, internet access, plus there is a spa and a rooftop seaview pool! Some photos below. Looks to me like a decent inexpensive place to stay, close to the center of Patong, but also quiet. In the area of the hotel, you're close to the older sections of Patong which are more local, there are some good cheap places to eat nearby such as THE "kao man gai" place. If you walk up Sai Nam Yen road towards the temple, you find a quieter, more local Patong.

Aspery Hotel - Booking & Reviews

• Aspery Hotel - Rates and Reservations at Agoda.com
• Aspery Hotel Reviews
• More Patong Beach Hotels

Aspery Hotel - Photos

Aspery Reception Aspery Rooftop Pool

Aspery Hotel Phuket Twin Room Aspery Double Room

Phuket Hotels - More Information - Online Booking

• More of Jamie's Phuket Hotel Suggestions
• Top 10 Phuket Hotels
• Phuket Hotels - Book Online at Agoda.com
• Thailand Hotel Booking at Agoda.com
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Friday, 21 May 2010

Laem Hin Seafood - still a favourite restaurant

Posted on 07:32 by Unknown
While I do intend to add more restaurants on this blog as time goes by, everyone has their favourite places to eat, places where you feel comfortable, relaxed and you KNOW the food is going to be good. Some days you feel like experimenting, other days you want to head out for lunch safe in the knowledge that you'll enjoy your meal. One day in May 2010, on one of my final days of holiday, with the kids already back at school, my wife and I had a chance for a nice lunch together, just the 2 of us. It was a hot, humid day, typical for the time of year. My wife fancied somewhere with aircon, like Fuji Japanese restaurant in the Central Festival mall (we did eat there this week!), but I realised I'd not been to Laem Hin Seafood for ages, and wanted to taste some real Thai food. Laem Hin was the first restaurant I wrote about on this blog back in April 2006 - see here.

Although it was a hot day, there were plenty of dark clouds around, which you can see in the photos below. In the hot season (March - May) you can get thunderstorms any time of day. This year the real low season weather is very late coming (see more on the Phuket Weather blog). The restaurant was not too hot - most of the seating is shaded, though they do have tables out on the old jetty which would be nice for a romantic evening meal.

Laem Hin Seafood tables on the old wooden jetty

View from our table at Laem Hin Seafood

Getting there: It's a few km north of Phuket Town (if coming from Phuket Town direction on the main airport road, you need to go past the turning and do a U turn. If coming from Patong direction, head to Tescos, turn left on the bypass road and right at the end of that road where it meets the airport road. Sign at the turn off - picture below, then you drive a few km through a Muslim village before getting to Laem Hin at the end of the road. Location map at the foot of the page. The image on Google Maps is updated since 2006, shows clearly the new jetty that does kind of spoil the view from the restaurant.

Sign to Laem Hin, southbound on airport road a few km north of Phuket Town

We turned up very early for lunch.. about 11:30am, we were the first customers - more people arrived later. It's a popular place for locals, and certainly getting better known by tourists, has recommendations on other websites, it's not just me! Laem Hin Seafood has a long menu, there are tanks with fresh seafood next to the kitchen, or you can get simple rice and noodle dishes. My favourites are the salads. Thai salads are not just some veg and dressing. Oh no. There's lots of flavour, often rather a lot of chilies, various flavourful things like lemongrass. Laem Hin has a huge list of salads. I felt like ordering about half a dozen. Made do with my favourite Yam Gung Seab (made with dried, smoked shrimps) and Yam Tua Pu (wing bean salad with coconut milk, tamarind, shrimp.. oh, stop it's making me hungry!). Photos below.

Yam Gung Seab

Yam Tua Pu

My wife had a spicy soup (called Tom Pret), half of which was taken home in a doggy bag :) Waste not, want not! Oh, and we had rice of course.

Rice

Not disappointed. Never have been at Laem Hin Seafood. I took a little walk around after eating. When we first came in 2006, the old wooden jetty was used by longtails heading to Koh Maphrao and Koh Rang Yai, small islands just offshore from Phuket. Now there is a new concrete jetty. I liked the old wooden planks on the remains of the old jetty...

Wood on the old jetty at Laem Hin

Close to the restaurant there are some stilted houses. Laem Hin is really a small fishing village, but the land between the main road and the restaurant has attracted developers in recent years, though quite a bit of the land is wetland - there are also some shrimp farms along the way. The houses near the restaurant retain the traditional feeling. I walked a little way taking photos while my dear wife drove ahead and waited patiently.

Houses near Laem Hin Seafood

House and boats near Laem Hin

House on the road near Laem Hin Seafood

I can taste those salads now... prices are very reasonable too. I was glad to find that Laem Hin Seafood is still good. I should mention that just over the water towards Koh Maphrao, there are several floating restaurants. We ate only one time over there and mean to do it again so I can blog the experience! We'll also be back at Laem Hin. Phuket has a fair number of local restaurants around the coast that are all but ignored by 99% of tourists. Yes, if you have a hotel in Karon or Kata, it's a fair drive to Laem Hin, over 20km... which is why I do recommend having your own transport in Phuket.. that's another story, but Phuket is a big place, and if you sit on the beach you are seeing just a tiny part of what makes the island, and on the main beaches you see practically nothing of the "real" Phuket which is what this blog tries to show.

Close to Laem Hin is Koh Maphrao (Coconut Island) and there are several floating restaurants off the coast, just a few minutes ride in a longtail boat from Laem Hin. We've eaten here a few times too.

• Kruwit Floating Restaurant
• Bang Mud Floating Restaurant

Added November 2011. A few "food porn" photos from Laem Hin Seafood taken on recent visits. The food never disappoints me here!

Yam Ta Krai

(above) Yam Ta Krai - salad made with lemongrass, smoked prawns, chili, cashew nuts, peanuts. Delicious!

Fried Prawns

Fried breaded prawns are always a good side dish. Laem Hin does good Hor Mok (local style fish curry wrapped in banana leaves) too .. no photo here, but do order some!

Tom Praet (Spicy)

(above) Tom Praet Talay, a spicy seafood soup. Very typical southern Thai style.

Laem Hin Seafood - Location Map


View Laem Hin Seafood, Phuket in a larger map
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Wednesday, 12 May 2010

Khao Sok National Park - Cliff and River Jungle Resort

Posted on 04:13 by Unknown
Holidays! By the end of April, things are pretty quiet in the dive shop, so I took a holiday starting April 29th, allowing about 10 days with the family before the kids went back to school after the "summer" break (Thai schools have summertime sensibly from March - May which is the hottest time of year). We decided to stop in the Khao Sok area for a night on the way to Chumphon. The chosen accommodation was the Cliff and River Jungle Resort, which had been recommended by friends. Looked great on the website, but don't they always?... For me, a personal recommendation is far more important.

• Cliff and River Jungle Resort Online Booking

The drive from Phuket took around 2½ hours via Khao Lak. I half thought of stopping in Khao Lak to look at the boats that had been carried inland by the tsunami. Saw the famous police boat from the main road. But really, I don't want to be a "tsunami tourist". Have written about my tsunami thoughts several times on this blog, most recently in December 2008. Just North of Khao Lak, there is the small town of Takua Pa. We somehow managed a wrong turn and found out that near Takua Pa is a beautiful looking old town called Sri Takua Pa. Like old Phuket, but with no cars. I want to go back and look around some day. From Takua Pa to the Cliff and River is only around one hours drive, although we stopped a couple of times for the views. It's all hills and valleys around here and very rural. The main entrance to the Khao Sok National Park is on the North side of the road, and the entrance to the Cliff and River is on the South side around 10km after the park entrance.

Our room

Before saying anything else, I'll say this - we'll be back. Location, WoW! Well, check some of the photos below. Nice people... and having been there once, we know exactly what room numbers we want next time :) No, not going to mention that here. We checked in after midday, and were given a "River" room with an extra bed. The room was quite a walk from reception. I could park the car near the restaurant, also by the river, but still a bit of a hike to carry bags. The room was decent, maybe a bit "jungly", a balcony outside by a small stream. Aircon, fridge. There was a TV, not sure why, could only get a few Thai channels. We did not use it. And a great outdoor shower for that true jungle experience. Used it quite a few times - this is a HOT time of year here!

The restaurant is great, by the river, in the jungle, I liked the wooden furniture, food was good (not super cheap, mind you), beer was cold :) We had lunch there after checking in. The curry my wife ordered (Gaeng Phet Gai) was superb.

Family at the restaurant, Cliff and River resort

Afternoon was so darn hot - we all chilled in our aircon room for a while before hitting the pool. What a great pool. Not large - we were of course staying at the hotel out of high season. The only people using the pool other than us were 2 German couples.. I vowed to beat them to the best seats next morning... If the resort was full, that pool might be rather crowded. Sometimes, I do like the low season :)

Pool has a view of the huge cliff that towers 1000+ feet over the resort, has a jacuzzi, a shaded sala and chairs to hang your towel at 7am to beat the Germans :) The kids loved it right away. Now, Khao Sok has all kind of activities like rafting, canoeing, hiking, elephant trekking.. maybe next time we'll do a canoe trip on the river. This little trip was all about getting a feel for the place. We stayed in the pool for a couple of hours.





Kids in the pool at Cliff and River

We did get out of the hotel for a couple of hours, drove back to the main national park entrance in the late afternoon. Lots of small hotels there and jungle huts and small restaurants where we ate, as the kids said they were starving. I think the threat of a jungle walk made them hungry! From the entrance there are hiking trails of 5km or more. You can pitch a tent in this area too, we saw some people doing that. There are some bathrooms provided by the national park. We did not see much, as really, if you want to see Khao Sok, you need to hike or do a boat trip. Here's a new post from 2012 - we stayed at Cliff and River again, but also did canoeing, a boat trip on the lake and tubing - Khao Sok National Park 2012.

River near the Khao Sok national park entrance

On the way back to Cliff and River we checked out another place to stay called Khao Sok Treehouse Resort. Very jungly! We climbed steps and crossed walkways to a room in the trees. The room was amazing, a huge double bed, a tent for the kids, wireless internet, aircon, satellite TV, a wonderful treetop bathroom.. they offered us the room for 2500 Baht. The website has prices up to over 5000 Baht. We did think about staying a night on the way home, certainly a unique place - had a pool too on the jungle floor.

The night at Cliff and River was very peaceful, insect noises, we slept very well. I had to catch a fair size "tookay" lizard in our room, as my wife said it might bite us. I planned to wake early - we'd been told the place looked great with the early morning mists over the mountains. I did wake before the rest of the family and went on a wander around the hotel grounds. The mists covered the cliffs, the only people awake at 7am were some staff cleaning the pool.

7am - mists over the mountains

Took until about 7:30am for the mists to start to clear...

7:30am - mists clearing

Waking up early is not my favourite thing to do, but sometimes an early morning is worthwhile. I watched as the mountains appeared and disappeared in the low clouds, giving sneak previews of their full power...

Mountain tops in the mist

I went to wake up the rest of the family for breakfast. A breakfast is included in the room price - the normal kind of Thai style English breakfast.. something in the belly at least! Again, loved the restaurant location. Photo below is my wife on the way to eat...

Walking to breakfast, Cliff and River resort

We just about managed to beat the Germans to the pool. Figured we would as we beat them to breakfast by about 15 minutes. We planned to check out before midday, but I certainly planned to enjoy the pool for a couple of hours! Views in the morning around 9am, great - blue skies and a great view of the cliff that gives the hotel (part of) it's name.





Could stay there all day with a break for lunch! Hiking? You are welcome to it! We came for the scenery :) A drive around this area gives endless views. I am sure hikes would too, but our kids really don't want to go trekking and I don't plan to be "Outdoor Dad" - hey kids, let's do a 10 mile mountain hike! We do plan another trip on the lake/reservoir sometime and for sure will be back at Cliff and River, probably in September when we have some more school holidays and my parents are visiting from the UK.

Khao Sok mountains, jungle and blue skies

We paid 2,000 Baht for the night for the family (2 adults, 2 kids)... there are actually some family rooms that are a bit bigger too. A big lunch including a few beers was 750 Baht. We'd plan to stay 2 nights next time to allow more time for maybe a canoe trip or elephant ride or just more time in the pool! This place was a welcome rest. Easy to do as a weekend trip from Phuket too - we might even do that before September.

Cliff and River website is here, or there is easy to use online booking here.

We visited again in September - stayed 2 nights, enjoyed a very relaxing time even with the heavy rain most of the afternoon on the 2nd day, I mean, it's rainforest, so you have to expect rain! The jungle looks great on a rainy day!

khao-sok-morning

Some friends came along too, and we had a little party. The photo below taken in the morning, my daughter went to visit a friend's daughter at their bungalow. I look at the photo and can feel the peace.

Bungalow

Some more photos from our September visit to the Cliff and River Jungle Resort on Flickr.

• Cliff and River Jungle Resort Online Booking

Update July 2012 - we did another Khao Sok trip including canoeing and tubing on the river - see Khao Sok National Park Trip 2012.
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